At idle, the lowest outlet power draw recorded from our Kill-a-Watt was 73.7W, which translates to a 5W delta between the samples. That delta increases to 9W when running Prime95 on all 16 threads on the 1700X. 1080P THE TALOS PRINCIPLE BACKGROUND FULLĬonsidering GPU power under full system load, the AX-370-Gaming 5 finally gets close to the Taichi’s result, but the Gaming K4 from ASRock still takes the cake. Again, at maximum system utilization, getting the GPU fully engaged for a longer duration requires all three monitors to be engaged and closely watching the power meter. I have Gaming 5 and do not recommend it at all. My CPU is Rywith stock (LED )cooler and RAM is 2 x Crucial Ballistix Sport DDR4 2400 ( it is on QVL list) and GPU is RX 460 4GB. It is connected to 850 watt Thermaltake PSU and housed in a Zalman Z12 Plus case. My SSD's + HDD's are connected through a 4-bay IcyDock 2.5" hot-swap HDD cage which I installed on a 5.25 drive bay on my case. Theroretically the Ryis supported with BIOS F3 ( original BIOS the motherboard came with), now I am running on latest BIOS F5 ( Agesa 1.0.0.4.a ) Theoretically, I should not have any reason to open the side panel of the case ever again. The problem is this damn thing freezes and gets stuck on an undocumented BIOS POST code on every startup. This damn thing freezes on logo screen or when you enter BIOS. You enter BIOS, click on a few arrow keys to move around it and baaamm. When it freezes, it stays so, restarting does not help, shutting down and restarting does not help etc. I shut it down, wait for 5 minutes, then it starts to boot. The On/Off button, CMOS clear button, OC button, restart button located at the top right and 7 segment POST LED display in bottom left are very helpful if you build assemble your motherboard by placing the CPU and RAM AND IF YOU POWER IT UP BEFORE YOU INSTALL IT ON YOUR CASE. 1080P THE TALOS PRINCIPLE BACKGROUND INSTALLĪfter you install it on your case and close the side panels, they are useless. I had read Ryzen had issues and deduced that I needed a CMOS Clear button to cope with frequent BIOS issues. But a Clear CMOS button is useless unless you can use it without opening your case, and some Asus motherboards do have them located on the back panel of motherboard - but god, they are expensive. I had two alternatives to choose from : MSI Gaming Carbon Pro or this one. I selected this one for the presence of Clear CMOS key only.
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